​​
Nuggehalli, Koravangala, Mosale, Doddagaddavalli
Staying true to the expedition of exploring the not-so-popular Hoysala Temples, I began the journey towards the Lakshmi Narasimha Temple situated in the small village of Nuggehalli. When I was researching these treasured temples, I came across a book, written in 1996, 'A Complete Guide to Hoysala Temples'. This book covers some of the magnificent temples from the Hoysala era. While I have tried to cover most of the places in and around Mysore and Hassan, there are a few more, a little farther off from Hassan. There cannot be a better place than Belur to make a base to explore these treasure troves. The temples of Belur, Halebidu and Somnathpura are the most popular from the Hoysala era.
The first stop was at the lovely hamlet of Nuggehalli. The kind priest of the Shri Hoysala Lakshmi Narasimha Temple opened the doors for us (two other persons who had come to visit the temple). When I was about to leave the place, a gentle old granny came there looking for her footwear. These were hidden below the car; the other two visitors had driven down in it. She sat on the steps of a building next to the temple patiently waiting for them to move their car. While sitting there, she began chatting with me about the weather, my whereabouts, etc. Another local who was playing with her kid chipped in and informed me about another temple just a couple of hundred metres away. This Chandramaulishwara temple is situated opposite the village pond, next to which stands an elegant Banyan tree. I parked my motorcycle under the tree and walked to the temple. It was just what I'd expected. The alluring ancient temple, with splendid sculptures and incredible architecture, and I was the only soul to appreciate it. Bidding farewell to the warm-hearted granny and the lady, and cherishing the experience, I moved on to the next temple on the list at Mosale.
Lined with corn fields on either side of the pot-hole ridden road, the State Highway 102 was a nice interior route. It was quite a challenge to enjoy the scenery as I had to (more or less) always keep an eye on the road, so as not to falter and fall into a pot-hole. July is a good time of the year to see the corn fields in all their glory. The dark green shade stretches farther than your eyesight can. The intermittent drizzle added to the drama and was just the perfect way to enjoy the rustic, pastoral side of Karnataka. Mosale has two temples next to each other. One is dedicated to Vishnu, Channakeshava, and the other to Shiva, Nageswara. The eager caretaker of the temples opened the locks and, with great zeal, began narrating the history, mythology, and story related to the temple. Carved out of black stone, the idol of Channakeshava is beautiful. The incessant drizzle made it impossible to take the camera out to capture the photograph. But I carry a very fond memory of this place. With the corn fields stretching along the horizon, a friendly caretaker, and the beautiful temple. It is quite a task to reach this place, but it is worth the effort.
The next place on the list was the Bucheswara temple at Koravangala. To get to this place, I had to enter Hassan city and then deviate. This place is also known as Koramangala. It is one of the well-preserved temples, built by a wealthy general of the Hoysala King Narasimha I, called Buci. The temple is unique in that it houses Shiva and Surya. The carvings around the temple are stunning. The serenity of the place remains intact thanks to the absence of a crowd. It is a perfect place to immerse oneself in the peaceful surroundings and appreciate the art, architecture and sculptures of the charming temple. Right across the road are twin temples dedicated to Nageshwara and Govindeshwara. Though ornate, they are not as exceptional as the Buceshwara temple and are smaller in size, too. It must have been quite compelling when they were built, but today, when I look at it, I question myself: "How ruined can a ruin get?". The weeds and plants seem to have taken over the ancient temple, and I hope they will clear it out at least after the rains.
The last stop before hitting the base (Belur) was the captivating Laskhmi Devi Temple at Doddagadduvalli. The temple is placed in the centre of a walled courtyard, with four small shrines embedded in the four corners of the wall. Adding to the charm of this monument is the stunning backdrop, the lake. The carvings around the temple don't have the sculptures usually found in most Hoysala temples. This kind of architecture and decoration is of the old style. With no figurative sculptures, but having decorative towers. Idols of Lakshmi and Kali are found inside the main shrine, whose main door is beautifully sculpted.