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Where the road is less traveled, the soul feels freer
Though there were no thundershowers the previous evening, the fog was denser than the day before. I had planned a loop to ride with breakfast at one of the vegetarian restaurants we'd eaten a few years ago. Tucked away amongst the greenery, Thrissilery Temple is unique in that you circumnavigate from the right, unlike the usual practice of beginning from the left. It doesn't seem to be as crowded and popular as Thirunelly. Somewhere, I read that you are to visit Thrissilery and then head to Thirunelly. The last 1.5 km to the temple is immensely picturesque, and the final 200-300 metres were quite challenging for me. A good Samaritan helped me with my motorcycle. And all the effort was worth it. With the reserve forest as a backdrop, the temple is spectacular, and it's such a shame I missed coming here for such a long time.
Picture courtesy: Keralatourism
According to the ritual, one has to light the lamp with ghee here and then go to Thirunelly for the last rites. The perennial water at the temple dedicated to Jaladurga flows all the way from Paapanaashini, the stream at Thirunelly. A route through the forest is about eight kilometres to this stream. This must've been the route our forefathers had taken to complete the last rites for the deceased person. The belief goes that being Shiva temple, you are not to circumnavigate completely but return three-fourths of the way. Knowing such legends and beliefs always adds to the authenticity of the experience. Take the steps to reach another old temple atop, where not many people go. It is very calm and peaceful up there.
In line with the plan, I was to ride another hour and a half or two to the breakfast spot. Enjoying the serenity of the place, I didn't feel like rushing to the next destination. Taking my time, I soaked in as much tranquillity as my soul could. I breakfasted at the Indian Coffee House in Panamaram. The masala dosa appeased my hunger and energised me for the next part of the ride. Trivia: At any Indian Coffee House in Kerala, you will find beetroot in the masala dosa and cutIet. I decided to ride towards Vythiri anyway. Taking the interior roads going through Echome, riding alongside the Panamaram river and paddy fields, I eventually joined the Tharuvana - Vythiri road, popular for the views of tea estates with the backdrop of the Brahmagiri Mountain Range. This route is on the tourist map, so expect a lot of traffic.
Instead of doing a loop of going to Kalpetta and returning to the homestay, I decided to ride back towards Banasura Sagar Dam. These winding roads passing through the tea gardens are spectacular and a joy to ride. Skirting along the backwaters of the dam and revelling in the views, I soon reached the dam area. Deviating from here, riding through the inner roads with exotic names like Katthirappara and such, I was back riding next to the Panamaram river and soon reached the outskirts of the town.
A straightforward route from here, and I was back at homestay in no time. The misty cool mornings had given way to sweltering hot afternoon, and both Kiki and I were thoroughly barbecued.
Sahyadri - Panamaram - Mananthavady (deviate before reaching town to Kattikulam Mananthavady road) - Thrissilery - Panamaram - Pinangode - Pozhuthana - Vythiri - Pozhuthana - Padijnarathanra - Eachome - Panamaram - Sahyadri
