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Kuttikanam
It has been three days now with no sign of rain. This did not feel like a monsoon ride. Tracing back the route we had taken the previous day, we headed towards Kattappana, crossing Erattiyar Dam through a combination of patchy, broken, and smooth tarmac. We lunched at a small town just before Kattappana. From Kattappana, the wide national highway winds through tea estates with spectacular scenery. The weather changed as we neared Elappara; by the time we reached Kuttikanam, it was accompanied by mist and light drizzle. Sitting at 1,100 metres above MSL, this town and the surrounding areas have it all: steep slopes, valleys, winding roads, and numerous viewpoints. The warm welcome and tender care from the hosts of Ameliore Homes was just what we needed after a day’s ride and the wet, chilly weather. Looking at the immaculately kept rooms and spick-and-span interiors, I hesitated a bit to unload the drenched and dirty riding gear and luggage. The weather remained foggy, rainy, and cold for the next two days.
It was a relief to unpack the luggage, knowing that I didn’t have to pack everything again the next morning. I thought the day was winding down, and then—bam!—out came a surprise cake, wrapped in love and totally unexpected. I was speechless, but with an ear-to-ear grin. Relishing the delicious cake from the local Town Bakery, we headed out for a late dinner. The town surprised me with a restaurant that is open 24/7, named Open Kitchen. After having food at this fancy restaurant, we stopped at Thattukada for kattan chai. Calling it a night, I slept blissfully after the musty room fiasco of the previous night. The rain pounded through the night, and the next morning welcomed us with mist. The view from the living area is simply spectacular—when the fog clears up, you can see the lights of the faraway town twinkling.
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Breakfast was finger-licking good, after which we packed for the rain and headed towards Kailasagiri. The trail is an off-road stretch that ascends to a hilltop where a Shiva temple stands. I didn’t take my bike all the way. While I was wondering where to park my bike, I spotted a local guy coming my way and asked him if it was okay to park my vehicle on the side of the road, as I was hitching a ride with another friend from the group on his motorcycle. The good Samaritan offered a place to park near his home, so the good friend and I rode back till there. After off-roading for a couple of kilometres, the last kilometre or so needed to be hiked. The rocks were slippery in the rain, and visibility was low due to the foggy conditions. The wind was brutal, threatening to push me away. The hike was incredible—the Trishula (trident) visible only when we were close, just a couple of metres away. We couldn’t make it to the peak due to the inclement weather and the slippery rock. On the way back, I picked up my bike and headed towards Vagamon.
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A Homely Pause In Between: Hikes, Jokes, Fresh Socks and a Surprise Slice of Joy
Kailasagiri
Kailasagiri
Vagamon, in Idukki, is a well-known tourist destination and a popular backdrop for numerous film shoots. The pine forest, meadows, and viewpoints are some of the popular spots. Back in 2013, we had stayed at Asha Sadan, the old house of eco-friendly master architect Laurie Baker. We had done the trip on a trusty RX100, with both of us and all our luggage packed on. Both times, I have seen Vagamon in rain and fog, wet and cold. Sipping on hot kattan chai from the shop opposite, we decided to head back to the homestay before we got soaked in the rain. I was quite impressed with my riding boots for keeping me dry and for the incredible grip during the hike. The same goes for the rain gear that kept me dry despite the whole day of rain. Home-cooked, steamy hot rice porridge was welcomed by us all. With a tentative plan to visit Thekkady the next morning, we settled into our cosy beds for a good night’s sleep.
The weather remained the same the next morning as well. I geared up and enthused others to get going. We headed to Parunthumpara, a viewpoint with spectacular views—though all we could see was fog. From there, we continued towards Kumily. Tackling the fast-moving KSRTC buses, we wound through the smooth curves and reached the town centre of Kumily after a quick and tasty lunch at Nucleus Asian Kitchen at Springvalley. Things have changed at Thekkady Boating Centre since I had come here back in 2013. Ditching the plan to go on the boat ride in the rain, we decided to head back towards Kuttikanam, while a few stayed back in the town centre to shop for locally grown spices.
Parunthumpara
Pic courtesy: Oswin Varghese
Next up was the intriguing Ammachi Kottaram. Half-covered in mist most of the time, the palace (kottaram) looked like an eerie castle straight out of a horror story. The two-century-old palace served as a summer home to the Travancore Kings. Wives of the rulers were reverently addressed as ‘Ammachi’, hence the name Ammachi Kottaram. Situated on 25 acres of land, the palace stands weathered and worn, with no conservation efforts and the ceiling falling off in places. The route to get to the palace is an adventure in itself. Officials from the Excise Department were waiting at the gate as part of their routine scan. Seeing a bunch of riders with Karnataka registration bikes, they got curious about us visiting the place. Out of four, two of us began conversing in Malayalam, and after their usual thorough checking, they were convinced that we were not there for any unwarranted affair. We made such a good impression that the other vehicle coming behind us was let go without any checking once they learnt that they were with us.
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The next stop was the St. George’s CSI Church at Pallikunnu on the Kumily–Kattapana highway. In the cemetery, you find a grave for the beloved horse Downy, owned by J.D. Munro. Munro was a Scottish soldier and administrator, remembered as one of the most brilliant and popular administrators of the kingdoms of Cochin and Travancore. He served as Diwan (Prime Minister) to the queens Rani Gowri Lakshmi Bayi and Rani Gowri Parvati Bayi of Travancore, and Raja Kerala Varma of Cochin. An archipelago of eight islands located in the Ashtamudi Lake of Kollam, called Munroe (Thuruthu) Island, was named in his honour.
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After this, we headed back home. Cherishing the adventures so far and sharing more travel stories and other entertaining conversations later, we called it a night. We decided to start early the next morning for the next destination in Idukki.